2022: A Life-Saving Snack
In 2022, Shekhoo Raja @motology and I stopped here to grab a bite before our final push toward the grueling Arabel Pass. Shekhoo turned to me and asked if we could find some *ayran* (traditional yogurt) and bread. I peeked inside the yurt and asked the hosts. As we sat enjoying our quick snack, two riders from Romania caught up with us. We were the back-of-the-pack riders—exhausted but moving steadily toward Checkpoint 3 of the Silk Road Mountain Race. The fresh *ayran* and homemade Kyrgyz bread from that yurt gave us the exact burst of energy and strength we needed to keep pedaling.
This spot sits right at the confluence of three wild rivers: the Burkhan, Kalcha, and Jaman Echki. A rugged dirt road cuts through here, connecting the high-altitude *syrt* (highland plateau) zones of the Arabel, Burkhan, and Balgart valleys.

2023: Shelter from the Exhaustion
In 2023, I found myself here again, this time riding with Juraj from Slovakia. It was the ninth day of our Traverse. We were moving fast—excluding our descent into Barskoon Pass instead of Juuku Pass and a quick hitchhike from At-Bashy to Naryn, we were right on schedule to complete our 10-day ride from Bishkek to Barskoon.
However, as we approached the upper reaches of the Burkhan River, Juraj completely hit the wall; his strength was entirely spent, and he couldn't move another meter. Once again, this exact spot provided us with refuge, food, warmth, and shelter.
I used the unexpected stopover to take in the vast surroundings, snap a few photos, and chat with our hosts. They welcomed us into their large yurt, which served as their kitchen, dining room, and family living space during their breaks from pasture chores. It was during this chat that I suggested to Nurjamal *eje* (respected older woman) that they set up a dedicated guest yurt. I told her it would be a sanctuary for weary travelers looking for shelter from the unpredictable mountain elements, a place to sleep, and a spot to recharge. I explained that a famous bikepacking Traverse route runs right through their land, and that the Silk Road Mountain Race has used the Burkhan and Arabel valleys as an unyielding fixture of its course for years.

2025: A Passing Glance
In 2025, I returned to these valleys, but this time I was on a mission to locate a lost caravanserai hidden somewhere in the area—a meeting I had been planning for an entire year. Riding past Nurjamal eje’s settlement, I decided not to stop so I could maximize my daylight for the ruins. But as I spun past, I noticed a small, distinct guest yurt pitched beside theirs. I smiled and thought to myself, "Perhaps Nurjamal eje took my advice."

July 2026: Coming Full Circle
Now, in July 2026, as I write this note, about a week has passed since I revisited these highlands. Frank @frank_schmieder, Joerg @joergschmieder, and I were descending the Arabel Pass. Taking advantage of the bright, sunny, and long summer day, I told my two companions to hold out just a little longer until we reached Nurjamal’s camp.
We pulled in, rested our bikes, and treated ourselves to a hot tomato fried eggs with fresh onions and bowls of hot tea mixed with thick, rich *kaymak* (clotted cream). We stayed the night in that very same small guest yurt, perfectly sized for 3–4 bikepackers. Filled with curiosity, I asked Nurjamal eje if they had truly decided to pitch the guest yurt because of our conversation years prior. It was an incredibly heartwarming feeling to hear her confirm that they had indeed taken my advice.

At Home with Nurjamal Eje and Dokturbek Baike
Bikepacking through Kyrgyzstan is about far more than just logging kilometers across brutal valleys and high passes—it is about the encounters with people whose lives are inextricably bound to these mountains. In the Kalcha River valley, at the foot of the majestic Bai Kalmak Mount, beats the heart of true nomadic life.
Today, the yurt of this hospitable family stands on the historic site of Silk Road Era caravanserai alongside with an ancient Kalmak (Oirats) headquarters. According to local legend, the Kalmaks (who gave their name to both the mountain and the river) named the river after Kalcha, one of their legendary warriors.

Keepers of Tradition
Nurjamal eje is a hereditary shepherd. Her connection to this rugged land is absolute: she was born right inside a yurt in the neighboring, harsh canyon of the Jaman Echki River. Her parents climbed up to these high-altitude pastures and worked selflessly as herders from 1975 to 1998, passing down to their daughter an unwavering life in the mountains and this demanding, noble livelihood.
Today, Nurjamal eje, alongside her husband Dokturbek *baike* (respected older man), continues the legacy of their ancestors. Right here on the *jailoo* (summer pasture), their children—their son Beknazar and daughter Aidana—have grown up since birth. For them, these jagged peaks, sweeping valleys, high passes, the rushing waters of the Kalcha and Burkhan rivers, and the crest of Bai Kalmak Mount are not just a beautiful backdrop. They are ancestral lands. They are home.

Archaeology of the Ancient Silk Road
Just a few hundred meters from their yurt, downstream near the confluence of the Burkhan and Kalcha rivers, you will notice the rolling, earthen mounds of an ancient caravanserai. Centuries ago, it was repurposed as a cemetery by the Kalmaks (also known as Oirats) of the Dzungar Khanate, who likely destroyed the original structure. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Kyrgyz fought long, fierce wars against the Oirats for control of these Celestial Mountains —events that unfolded long after the Silk Road had lost its historical dominance in trade between Asia and Europe though Central Asia.

Uncover the Forgotten Caravanserai
The earthen remains of this old fortification, believed to be a historic Silk Road Caravanserai, are located roughly 32 km west of the Arabel Pass. Keep your eyes sharp as you ride past!
Learn more through the link here https://bikepackingkyrgyzstan.cc/uncover_forgotten_caravanserai