Uncover Forgotten Caravanserai

Uncover
Forgotten Caravanserai

A journey into a lifelong source of curiosity and discovery

bikepacking route

Jan 2, 2026

by Malik Alymkulov https://www.instagram.com/the_last_nomad_republic/

General Info

Distance - 780 km
Duration - 8-12 days
Highest point - 3840 m, Arabel Pass
Lowest point - 770 m, Bishkek
Difficulty - (1-10) 7
Unpaved road - 76%
Rideable time - 90%

Introduction

One of the main Silk Road corridors crossed the Celestial Mountains via Üzöngö-Kush river – Söök Pass to Barskoon, continuing along the southern shores of Issyk-Kul Lake. Whether you arrive here riding the Tian Shan Traverse, competing in the Silk Road Mountain Race, or intentionally choosing this route, you will be led to this place—the very spot where I first discovered the caravanserai. This newly discovered settlement reveals an untold chapter, pointing to another tiny branch of the Great Silk Road—one that ran far from the major way, deep within a vast severe landscape.
After rounding the remote corner beyond the polar-alike Arabel Pass, the route drops into a narrow, high-altitude valley with a stark, almost frightening character. This section is exposed and unforgiving: weather shifts rapidly, shelter is scarce, and the open terrain offers little protection from wind or cold. For modern riders, the logic is clear—move quickly through the valley or descend to safer elevations. Yet it was precisely here that ancient traders and Silk Road maintainers made a deliberate decision to build a fortified shelter. Rather than placing an inn in safer, lower terrain, they established a caravanserai in the high valley itself, ensuring continuity of trade across one of the most demanding crossings of the Celestial Mountains. Its location speaks to the strategic importance of the route and the resilience required to maintain it.
This settlement is marked as a grave or burial place on old soviet topographic maps. Modern shepherds who stay in yurts here during the grazing season told me that it is known locally as a Kalmak grave. The Kalmaks were a Mongolian tribe that once dominated this region during the Kyrgyz–Kalmak wars in the post–Silk Road era, roughly from the 16th to the mid-18th centuries. Based on the visible characteristics of the tombs, this interpretation may indeed be plausible. However, the question remains: what are the linear hills forming a square-shaped elevated platform? Their geometry strongly resembles the ruins of a fortress or fortified structure. Historically, both in the past and in modern times, the Kyrgyz have often used hills formed by ancient ruins as burial grounds. It is therefore likely that the Kalmaks followed a similar practice, reusing the remains of former fortifications as a base for their graves.
Riding through this section today places bikepackers directly in the footsteps of those early travelers, navigating the same exposure, the same urgency, and the same calculated risks that once shaped movement across Central Asia.
The route whispers of lost history, remote wilderness, and the quiet discipline of the lone nomad. As you pedal on, you’ll feel the pulse of ancient trade routes beneath your tires—vivid, timeless, and full of wonder.
Whether returning to Kyrgyzstan or arriving as a first-time bikepacker, you’ll ride with deeper context and meaning, turning the journey into a lifelong source of curiosity and discovery. Pause here. Pitch your tent, or seek yurt with local shepherds. Breathe in the vastness and mystery of the landscape, and take a moment to understand why this unlikely location once mattered so deeply to those who crossed it centuries ago.

Description

Uncover Forgotten Caravanserai - is a soulful bikepacking journey through Kyrgyzstan’s forgotten Silk Road. The route leads riders deep into the Burkhan River valley to uncover the unexpected remains of a caravanserai preserved in a state few would imagine still exist. The route begins in Bishkek, stretching through Kochkor and the southern part of the Issyk-Köl region before looping back to Balykchy—a regional transportation hub that makes returning to Bishkek easy. Alternatively, you can continue exploring Kyrgyzstan’s trails from Sary-Bulak village or from the town of Kochkor.
A main goal of this project was to locate a particular caravanserai remains so faint it is barely visible even on satellite imagery. Hidden in the upper Burkhan Valley, near the confluence of the Burkhan and Dzaman-Echki rivers, this settlement does not appear in any archaeological studies I could find. Reaching it in the remoteness, lost in the middle of nowhere, felt like uncovering a forgotten fragment of Silk Road history. Burkhan Settlement - Caravanserai - VIII-XII AD 41.755601, 77.355353 It may not yet be documented under that name.
To map this route, I scouted hundreds of kilometers through the mountains of Northern Kyrgyzstan of it’s Kyrgyz Ridge near Bishkek and Terskey Mountains of Issyk-Köl Lake Region, to link ancient ruins, forgotten caravanserais, burial mounds, and memorial stones. Each site carries the imprint of a civilizations that once thrived here, forming a living thread through which the Silk Road’s spirit still endures. What began as a simple idea—connecting historical landmarks along a cycling route—became a deep journey of discovery.
The Uncover Forgotten Caravanserai route connects four major archaeological centers in the Chu Valley—Krasnaya Rechka, the site of ancient Nevaket; Ken-Bulun; Ak-Beshim, the site of ancient Suyab (all three founded and developed by the Sogdians) VI-XII; and Burana, the site of ancient Balasagyn X-XII (established by the Turkic Karakhanid dynasty)—along with the important site of Khan Döbö near Tuura-Suu on the southern shore of Lake Issyk-Köl.
The route also includes eight caravanserais across the Issyk-Köl Region: Ala-Bash, Konur-Ölön, Köl-Tör, Myjar, Kadzy-Saz, Tosor, Barskoon and the newly identified Burkhan caravanserai (2025); including remains of a small ancient workshop “Sary Bulun Settlement” 8 km away from Balykchy.
Scythian, Hunnu, Turkic, and Mongolic burial grounds, tombs, and memorial stones further enrich the cultural landscape of the route in many locations.
While rooted in cultural exploration, this route crosses remote terrain, high passes, open valleys, and mountains known for rapidly shifting weather. Riders will traverse the rugged off-road tracks of the Arabel Plateau at 3,800 m and the wild Burkhan Valley, tackle demanding gravel climbs toward Kegety and Barskon Passes, and then roll through quiet villages and stretches of smooth secondary-road tarmac. A portion of the modern asphalt Silk Road—often busy with Chinese trucks—adds another layer of contrast.
It is a route that offers not only a significant physical challenge but also a deep immersion into the living legacy of the Silk Road.

Why do I believe this is the archeological discovery of a new caravanserai rather than another type of settlements?

I based this conclusion on a comparative analysis of satellite imagery from other confirmed caravanserais in Kyrgyzstan, focusing on their silhouettes, layouts, and overall forms. The sites used for comparison include documented caravanserais such as Tosor, Shyrdakbek, Mynakeldi and Tash-Rabat.

Burkhan Settlement

N 41.75444° E 77.35550° Burkhan Valley

Route Development

Back in 2024, I once again traced Burkhan Valley to Arabel Pass section I had cycled three times before, spending countless hours studying it through satellite imagery. And suddenly, I noticed what appeared to be a square shape—something strikingly similar to the contours of medieval caravanserai ruins I had seen before while searching for historical landmarks across familiar lands and throughout Kyrgyzstan. It resembled the contours of a well-known, iconic site: the Tash Rabat Caravanserai, a 15th-century, remarkably well-preserved stone fortress—one of the few enduring witnesses of a bygone era. Situated just at the Tian Shan Traverse route of Kyrgyzstan it is very much achievable yet hidden in the remote and wild place. I had cycled there twice while racing the SRMR, and once while guiding a solo bikepacker from Slovakia. I couldn’t believe that I had passed by it before—yet only now had I identified it and finally seen it on the map.
I had previously visited several archaeological sites on the south shore of Issyk-Köl Lake, as well as sites around Bishkek. I had also mapped out a few routes related trails, some of which overlapped. That was when the idea emerged: to cycle the entire distance, connect these locations, visit new archaeological sites and uncover forgotten caravanserai for future research and ultimately create a new route that others could experience as well.

Overall Difficulty

This is a serious high-mountain bikepacking expedition that earns an overall difficulty of around 7/10. Long, sustained climbs—one of them over 3800+m and vast 3800m plateu—combined with repeated high-altitude passes and remote terrain create significant physical and mental strain. Surfaces range from smooth compact gravel track to rough doubletrack, washouts, and sections of hike-a-bike on Kegety and Barskoon passes, multiple river crossings after Arabel pass. Resupply points are sparse, requiring riders to carry multi-day food and manage water carefully in exposed basins between Barskoon and SaryBulak villages; it's a long and remote stretch mainly on altitude. Weather, wind, altitude, and remoteness add serious commitment, making this route suitable for experienced bikepackers comfortable with expedition logistics and variable mountain conditions.
This is a serious expedition-level route requiring:

Strong fitness and mountain experience
Solid weather judgement
Bikepacking setup appropriate for long, remote, unserviced stretches
At least some experience with hike-a-bike, river crossings, and off-trail navigation

Map & GPX

Download GPX

Highlights

All the archaeological sites connected along this route are highlights in their own right -

Krasnya Rechka Settlement - ruins of an ancient Silk Road settlement known historically as Nevaket VI-XII AD 42.912369, 75.015315 Significant archaeological features: Dual City Walls (Shahristan); Citadel - a massive earthen platform — one of the tallest and most prominent structural remnants, rising above the valley plain; Uncovered and Preserved Buddhist Temple.
Ken Bulun Settlement - unknown VI-XII AD 42.856624, 75.132225 A complex of massive remains of the city’s fortress walls and citadel, largely unexcavated, along with traces of urban layouts extending beyond the main defensive structures.
Ak-Beshim Settlement - ancient city of Suyab, also known as Ordukent V-XII AD 42.804587, 75.195216 Massive remains of earthen defensive structures outline the shahristan and citadel. Hills and furrows in the terrain mark the layout of residential, public, and ritual precincts, but few superstructures survive above ground.
Burana Settlement - ancient city of Balasagyn X-XII AD 42.747238, 75.249249 A large brick minaret dating to the 10th–11th centuries, originally part of a mosque from the medieval city of Balasagun is The most prominent surviving structure rising above area. Around the tower are visible earthwork remnants of the fortified city walls and citadel platform, with low ramparts outlining the ancient shahristan core.
Hunnu stone memorial enclosures III BC - I AD Dzön-Alysh 42.322426, 75.107389
Royal Scithyan burial mounds VIII-I BC 42.254024, 75.502073
Turkic-Mongolic stone stele memorial V-XII AD Semiz-Bel Pass 42.184293, 76.054694
Scithyan stone memorial enclosures VII-I BC 42.19430 76.15810
Alabash Settlement - caravanserai X AD 42.115301, 76.530753 Four-corner fortified enclosure of earthen defensive structure remains.
Könur-Ölön Settlement - caravanserai X AD 42.126134, 76.617191 Four-corner fortified enclosure of earthen defensive structure remains.
Köl-Tör Settlement - caravanserai X AD 42.090800, 76.688690 Four-corner fortified enclosure of earthen defensive structure remains.
Kök-Sai Settlement - ancient city of Myjar VIII-XII AD 42.086472, 76.829819 Dual earthen city walls forming a defensive structure, with massive Old Turkic–Mongolic and Kyrgyz burial tombs and mausoleums built into the remains of the walls.
Khan-Döbö Settlement - ancient city of Ton VII_XII AD 42.065098, 76.971939 Massive remains of fortification walls surround the settlement, with a tall citadel mound at its center.
Kadzy-Saz Settlement - caravanserai X-XII AD 42.097927, 77.201909 Two earthen, four-cornered fortifications are situated side by side in the lower part of the Kadzy‑Saz Valley, at the entrance to the Kadzy‑Saz Gorge.
Tosor Settlement - caravanserai VIII-XII AD 42.168158, 77.435476 The caravanserai was a square fortified structure with semicircular towers and a reinforced entrance. The site is in ruins, with mostly ground‑level remains of walls and foundations with massive graves on tops, visible around the village outskirts.
Barskon Settlement - caravanserai - VIII AD 42.092327, 77.595032 Low ruins remain of the caravansarai. The earthen foundations and outlines of the former fortification structure. Visible when riding the valley area along the road.
Burkhan Settlement - caravanserai - VII-XII AD 41.755601, 77.355353 Square fortified platforms, overgrown or part of grazing lands. With lots of burial tombs placed on the fortification remains.
Scithyan burial mounds VIII-I BC 41.772432, 76.542216 Tall burial mounds are visible on the left side of the road in the valley.
Sary-Bulun Settlement - medieval workshop X-XII AD 42.400604, 76.098918 Low earthwork surface ruins just by the asphalt road. Subtle outlines of buildings, workshops, kilns, or compound foundations discernible in the landscape.

Burkhan Settlement
caravanserai VII-XII AD 41.755601, 77.355353
Four-corner fortified enclosure of earthen defensive structure remains

Highlights

Beyond the archaeological sites, the route features other geographical landmarks that are highlights and truly epic in scale and fame -

Kegety Pass 3870m
Gravel ride along Eastern Karakol River
Semiz-Bel Pass opens into vast, lush green pastures—an incredibly beautiful place, all within a short distance between Kochkor and Konur-Ölön
Scenic gravel ride through the hidden valley between Bokonbaev and Tosor
A long ascent climb to Barskoon Pass and the Arabel Valley on hard-packed gravel, leading into a beautiful and iconic landscape.
Polar-like Arabel Plato and cornering it’s Arabel Pass remote location and dirt road. Part of a Famous Tian-Shan Traverse ride.
The polar-like Arabel Plateau and the sweeping corner of Arabel Pass feel stark and remote, linked by a dirt road that’s part of the iconic Tian Shan Traverse.
Burkhan Valley dirt road ride. Vast, remote, expensive and 360’ around beauty.
Endless ride along vast valleys of Chardak-Su and Kara-Kudzur

Gallery

Important information

Best time to ride: late June to late September
Take a shared bus or taxi from the bus station in Balykchy or Kochkor. Drivers there are usually proactive and will help you fit your bike. In the summer of 2025, the cost was around €10 to take a bike on a bus, stored in the luggage compartment.
There are several remote, high-elevation sections where the weather is unpredictable and temperatures can drop to –5 to –10 °C. In the Arabel, Burkhan, and Chardak-Suu valleys, strong headwinds are common and can significantly slow your progress.
The first half of the route (435 km) passes through populated areas. There are two major regional towns with hotels, ATMs, large grocery stores, and local bus stations, as well as the large village of Tamga before the Barskoon Valley (the second biggest climb). From all of these places, you can take a shared minibus or taxi back to Bishkek. Once you leave Tamga, there are no villages or resupply points for nearly 227 km, until you reach Ak-Kyiya and Sary-Bulak.
For Kyrgyzstan, an MTB with front suspension is always recommended, though this route can be ridden on a gravel bike. I recommend tires around 50 mm wide, as there are a few rocky descents. Low (climbing) gearing is advisable for the long, sustained ascents.
In 2025, the Government of the Kyrgyz Republic, with the support of the Government of China, commenced construction of a new road connecting the newly established Customs Border Crossing Point on the Üzöngö-Kush River with the Issyk-Köl Region. The planned alignment goes through Sarymoinok Pass, Söök Pass and the Arabel Valley. Ongoing and future construction activities may affect travel conditions. Travelers should expect possible detours, restricted access, and changing surface conditions.

Camping/Lodging

You may lodge in guesthouses for the first three nights if you maintain a good, disciplined pace. The first half of the route (435 km) passes through several villages in relatively touristy regions. You can find homestays and guesthouses in Kochkor, Bokonbaev, and Tamga, which are local tourist destinations themselves and are located roughly one day’s ride apart.
Dacha Kegety may provide your first shelter before tackling Kegety Pass.
In the second half of the route (280 km), there are no guesthouses, only a few occasional yurt stays. Here, you need to rely on your own camping gear.
For my expedition, I chose to camp exclusively. Here are my camping spots:
Night 1 - 42.614947, 75.140438 Kegety Valley
Night 2 - 42.438240, 75.044202 Kegety Pass
Night 3 - 42.220579, 75.692733 Kochkor Valley
Night 4 - 42.195540, 76.080925 Semiz-Bel Pass
Night 5 - 42.082554, 76.821737 Könur-Ölön Valley
Night 6 - 42.085123, 77.177053 Kadzy-Saz Valley
Night 7 - 42.092358, 77.594063 Barskoon Valley
Night 8 - 41.901398, 77.649491 Barckoon Serpantine
Night 9 - 41.755751, 77.354196 Burkhan Valley
Night 10 - 41.850858, 76.429627 Jalpak Bel Pass

Night 1 - 42.614947, 75.140438 Kegety Valley

Food/Water

Several villages with small shops lie between Bishkek and Kegety Village, where riders can find bottled drinking water, sandwiches, instant noodles, and basic snacks. A worthwhile detour leads to Kant, where you can stop for lunch to try Silk Road cuisine. In this context, Silk Road cuisine refers to Central Asian flavors prepared using Chinese culinary techniques, best represented by Uyghur and Dungan food. For a shared tasting, order one Uyghur and one Dungan dish for three to four people at Kilam Café in Kant (42.891369, 74.853004).
Kegety Village is the last practical place to reorganize food and supplies before entering the more remote terrain of Kegety Pass. Several streams and large rivers flow through Kegety Gorge; however, due to the presence of livestock, all water should be filtered.
Kochkor and Bokonbaev offer the best full resupply options on the route, with small supermarkets, bakeries, and cafés, and are well suited for major food restocks. Local dishes to try include lagman, manti, plov, fresh lepeshka bread, and black tea. Tamga provides more limited but reliable options with basic shops and a couple of cafés and serves as the final resupply point before approximately 230 km of remote, mountainous, and rough terrain with no resupply at all. Riders should carry enough food for at least three to four days beyond this point.
A water filter is required throughout the route. Chardaktu Suu and Karakudzur valleys may appear dry, but they contain intermittent streams and small rivers. Livestock is common in these areas, so all water sources should be treated.

Water and Food Strategy

Carry a water filter and treat all water collected in the mountains. Complete a major food resupply in Kochkor or Bokonbaev, with a final resupply in Tamga and again in Kochkor before the last stretch toward Balykchy. Do not rely on yurt camps for food or water. Plan for multiple days of full self-sufficiency after km 435. Weather, altitude, and remoteness can significantly slow progress, making extra food essential.

Travel Notes

Whether returning to Kyrgyzstan or arriving as a first-time bikepacker, you’ll ride with deeper context and meaning, turning the journey into a lifelong source of curiosity and discovery.

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Let me know if you’d like details on gear, planning, or specific sections of the route!

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Malik Alymkulov

https://www.instagram.com/the_last_nomad_republic/

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