BIKEPACKING KYRGYZSTAN
SUPPORT
The Celestial Divide
A journey from Great Steppes of Asia to Pamirs
across Celestial Mountains of Kyrgyzstan
bikepacking route
eng/rus

General Info


Distance - 1067 km
Duration - 15-25 days
Highest point - 3811 m, Koi-Djolu Pass
Lowest point - 770 m, Bishkek
Difficulty - (1-10) 7
Asphalt - epx 400 km
Trail (singltrack) - 10.9 km
Rig - I was ridding gravel adventure bike

The main, longest and highest ridges of the Celestial Mountains of Kyrgyzstan extend along the geographical latitudes. The largest valleys are stretched along the latitudes, respectively. The largest and most densely populated valleys of the country are located one in the north - Chui Valley, the other in the south - Fergana Valley. The two largest cities are Bishkek and Osh. Most of the roads between the valleys run along meridians. The same applies to roads that lead to high mountain pastures.
The mountains divide the country into north and south, and this has influenced the localised cultural peculiarities that have existed since ancient times. Many people in the country have to travel from north to south or back when travelling around the country. And it is always connected with crossing high mountain passes.
There is one asphalt road from Bishkek south to Osh, Pamir and Batken. Some cycling travellers use it to move from north to south.
I have made the route mainly on dirt roads, along the internal routes used by local people for their household needs and economic activities.
The route idea and this beautiful name came to me in the summer of 2023. Since then I have decided that I would try to devote some of my time to building new routes. The Celestial Divide is my biggest route-building project to date.
Here is the route I share with you.
It is a natural extension of two world famous cycling routes in Kyrgyzstan: Tian-Shan Traverse and Pamir Highway. If you plan to ride the Tian-Shan Traverse then after finishing it in Bishkek or at the Kegety Pass, you can continue on the Celestial Divide and then from Osh hit the trail south along the Pamir Highway.
The route is built based on already described segments of the underlying accessible, known and proven routes, eg. Tian Shan Traverse, Expedition Alay and SRMR (2021, 2022 editions). Some of the sections I have travelled earlier by bicycle, some by car. There are only three segments left to describe, there is very little information on them, less photos and as it turned out navigation platforms build the trail on one of the sections erroneously.
I will focus on these three segments in this description. Scouting them was one of the major tasks of the expedition.

The start is in Bishkek, the final point is at Base Camp of Lenin Peak and Tulpar-Kul lake. The actual finish is in Sarytash, from where I returned by hitchhike to Osh and then by plane to Bishkek.

Why Celestial? Celestial is an English transcript of Tengri. Tengri represents the Heavenly Father or the eternal blue sky, symbolizing divine power, the source of life, and a connection between humanity, the nature and eternity. Tengri is God for nomads of Eurasia, Turkic and Mongolic people. Tengri Tagh (Tau) is original ancient name of the Mountains of Heaven.

*Special thanks to Giraffe Coffee, a coffee roasting and brewing company, for supporting the expedition.

Map & GPX

Download GPX

Segment 1


From Kyzart Pass to the foot of Tyuz Ashuu Pass

I based my plan on the trek that Komoot generates automatically. Following this trek led us to a small narrow gorge where dozens of goat trails were visible on the southern slope. The slope was steep, so it was unrealistic to climb up there. We returned to the point of our descent on the way down after Kyzart Pass. There was a shepherd's yurt where a family was living. They told us which way to go down. There is no road, only a singletrack. The descent was not difficult, not long, and captivating, ending at a bridge over a small river called Bazarturuk from where the climb to Tuz-Ashuu starts. Study segment's track through the link below.
*During the first four days, I rode with Oleg Sobko https://www.instagram.com/oleg_sobko/
Have found and rolling a correct path to the foot of Tuz-Ashuu Pass

Segment 2


From Uch-Terek to Kyzyl-Unkur via Shyldyrak Pass 3044m

Heading out of the Ketmen-Tyube Valley into the Fergana Valley, you'll first hit the lower Kargysh Pass 1961 m, there is a chunky road to the pass. The road over both passes was built during the high-voltage grid construction; they put a double-track across the passes, but it's not in great shape right now. It's covered in stones, small rock chips and sand and just too steep to roll up the Kargysh Pass. Same goes for the greater Shyldyrak Pass. In a lot of sections, it's all washed out, covered in stones and really overgrown with grass. It's just too steep to roll up. The ascent and descent of Shyldyrak Pass was done by hiking with my bike on both sides. Study segment's track through the link below.
Ketmen-Tyube Valley. Road to Kargysh Pass

Segment 3


The gorge of the Isfayrmasy River and the Koy-Djolu Pass.

Tenizbay valley and the summer pastures are lying at the foot of the Koy-Djolu and Tenizbay Passes. Livestock farmers from Uch-Korgon and Kyzyl-Kiya move their herds there every summer, as well transporting all their supplies and equipment in their vehicles. A double-track runs along the entire gorge of Isfayramsy River. The journey starts in Uch-Korgon town. Ridding is long but not overly exhausting; in some places, rare, short switchbacks are hard packed with stones and rocks, so I had to walk and push my bike over those sections. Otherwise almost all sections are rideable. One of the bridges was destroyed by a landslide in the spring of 2024, so I had to bypass the area along a single-track on the front slope. Local shepherds had warned me about it before I reached the bridge. However, in order to be sure of my way, I had to survey the area around the bridge before proceeding along the singltrack. Approaching the switchbacks just right before Koy-Djolu Pass, the road was excellent, and the gravel on the serpentine was of high quality. The descent posed no particular difficulties, with the road surface in good condition all the way to the village of Kyzyl-Eshme.
Isfairamsay River gravel road

Highlights


  • Kegeti Pass – 3765m. A Celestial Divide Pass is known for its breathtaking landscapes. The pass sits in the Celestial Mountain range and offers spectacular views of rugged peaks, lush green valleys, and crystal-clear rivers. The surrounding terrain is rich with alpine meadows, dense forests, and dramatic cliffs, creating an almost surreal atmosphere.
  • A singletrack trail winds between Kyzart Pass and Tuz-Ashuu Pass, where navigation devices can easily lead you astray. Don’t worry—what awaits is a rewarding ride with stunning views and flowing singletrack. Just be sure to download our original Celestial Divide GPX to stay on course.
  • Panoramic views of Son-Kul Lake from the rocky cliffs of the northwest shore are scenic and exceptional.
  • A trek up the Kokomeren River leading to the Kyrk-Kyz Pass. Following giant columns of high voltage grid. Long, tiring, but captivating.
  • Endless climbs and thrilling descents define the rugged stretch from Toluk to Torkent, offering a relentless yet rewarding ride through raw, untamed landscapes.
  • Shyldyrak Pass – 3044m. A Celestial Divide Pass. The one which connects Ketmet-Tube Valley with its man made Toktogul water reservoir with the Fergana Valley. Tough climb on both sides. The double tack is mostly broken and not maintained. The gorge to the south is very beautiful with a huge amount of wet lash walnut forest. Very unique.
  • Ancient minaret and mausoleum complex in the town of Uzgen, dating back to the 11th–12th centuries during the Karakhanid dynasty. The Uzgen Minaret is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval Islamic architecture in Central Asia. The nearby mausoleums, built from ornate brickwork, housed the remains of Karakhanid rulers and reflect the city's importance as a regional capital during that era.
  • Immerse yourself in the vibrant life of three major cities in southern Kyrgyzstan, the most densely populated region of the country: Osh, Kyzyl-Kiya, and Uch-Korgon. Osh is the second-largest city in the country and marks the beginning of the Pamir Highway. Kyzyl-Kiya is where the first industry of Kyrgyzstan emerged in the early 20th century, with its coal mines. Uch-Korgon is a small town on the border with Uzbekistan, surrounded by picturesque peach orchards. From here, the road leads to the Koy-Jolu Pass and onward to the Chon-Alaï Valley.
  • Spectacular views of the Kok-Jangak hills and the vast Ferghana Valley. As you explore the area, you'll pass hayfields, dense walnut groves, and partially abandoned coal mines—once bustling industrial sites, now quietly worked by locals using traditional methods.
  • A journey through the desert along the right bank of the Aravan-Sai River, following the scenic road from Osh to Kyzyl-Kiya.
  • Koi-Jolu Pass – 3811m. A Celestial Divide Pass. One of the highest among those with double track gravel roads leading to the pass. I call this pass the “Pass of Several Summit” as each switchback on the southern slope looks like an independent summit. The terrain is very picturesque as you observe multicolor slopes and panorama views of the Kyrgyz Pamirs to the south.
  • A traverse of the Chon-Alai Valley, followed by an ascent and descent to Achyk-Tash little plateau and the mountaineering camps. The vast, dry, windswept Chon-Alai Valley lies between the Celestial Mountains and Pamirs, offering mesmerizing views of the massive ice formations cascading down the northern slopes of the Kyrgyz Pamirs.
  • Tulpar-Kul Lake, nestled amidst hundreds of smaller lakes, lies scattered across the Achyk-Tash Plateau in the Kyrgyz Pamirs.
Gallery
Where Celestial Mountains meet Pamir.
Snow peaks of Pamir on the horizon. View from Koi-Djolu Pass

Overall difficulty

The route is not technically difficult. Aside from the Shyldyrak Pass, where the two-lane road on the switchbacks is almost unused, eroded, overgrown with grass, and covered with stones, the other 3,000-meter passes offer fairly good road conditions. Kegeti is the most challenging of them.

Important information

  • Before Departure: Obtain a permit to visit border areas. The Achyk-Tash Valley, home to the base camps for climbers of Lenin Peak and the nearby Tulpar Lake, is within a border zone that requires special authorization for entry.
  • Highway Precautions: Exercise caution when traveling on the highway from Torkent to Üch-Terek (Sargata), as it is busy with traffic. It is recommended to ride on the shoulder. Alternatively, consider hitching a ride from Torkent to Üch-Terek (Sargata) to avoid the congested stretch. The same goes for the route between Uzgen and Osh. I rode along the roadside. The main road itself is extremely busy and noisy. Komoot suggests a detour from the village of Sadyrbay through Madaniyat — you might prefer that option to avoid the loud and heavily trafficked main highway.
  • Surmatash Reserve: Passing through the gate of the Surmatash Reserve in the Isfayramsy River Gorge is free. Visitors are typically only asked to record their name and entry time upon passing through.
  • Damaged Bridge: A bridge in the Isfayramsy Gorge was destroyed by a landslide in March 2024. To bypass this section, take the higher trail on the right slope (about 1km of hike-a-bake). The slope is steep, and the trail is narrow, so proceed with caution and care.
  • For Kyrgyzstan, I would always recommend an MTB, especially if you plan to travel on gravel roads and unpaved passes, with tires no narrower than 2.2. A gravel bike will also be a great choice for this route, with tires around 50mm. Personally, I used a gravel bike with 700C wheels and 50mm tires.
  • The best times to ride are July to mid-September.
  • Major city along the route with the option to depart in any direction: Osh. Mid-sized cities: Kyzyl-Kiya, with the possibility to travel toward Osh, Batken, and Fergana (Uzbekistan); Uzgen with travel direction to Osh; Djalal-Abad with the travel directions to Osh and Bishkek;  Small towns: Kochkor – direct road routes to Bishkek, Chaek – direct road routes to Kochkor and Bishkek, Torkent and Uch-Terek – direct road routes to Osh and Bishkek, Bazar-Korgon – direct road routes to Bishkek, Osh, and Jalal-Abad, Daroot-Korgon – road connection to Osh.
  • Kyrgyzstan has a visa-free regime with most countries in Europe, North America, and Asia. For citizens of other countries, a simplified visa-on-arrival procedure is available at Manas Airport in Bishkek.
  • Currency can be easily exchanged at any bank branch or at small private exchange offices. In cities and both large and small towns, shops generally accept Visa and Mastercard for payment.

Camping/Lodging

Most segments of the route are well-documented by other cyclists. Google Maps, Komoot, and RWGPS list numerous camping locations. Here, I will only highlight my own camping spots. Of the 16 nights I spent on the journey, four were indoors, and two were in yurts on the jailoo (summer pasture), while the rest of nights were wild camping.
During three of my tent camping nights, I faced hordes of mosquitoes:
• The 7th night by a spring above the village of Sargata.
• The last two nights in the Chon-Alai Valley.
I was glad to have brought the inner tent, which offered protection from the insects.
In Uch-Korgon, there are no hotels or guesthouses. Locals informed me of this, and neither Google nor other apps do not provided information on accommodations in the area. I learned from locals that any local mosque might offer overnight shelter, though I did not use this option.
The areas around the cities of Kyzyl-Kiya and Uch-Korgon are densely populated, so finding a suitable camping spot may take some time.
After descending from the highest Koi-Jolu Pass of the entire route I had enough food to not make a detour to Doroot-Korgon which is the biggest village in the Chon-Alay Valley and administrative center. There are a couple of hotels in the village. I stayed in one of them during my previous visit. But not this time. I spent two overnights, camping in the valley and finished my travel in the village of Sary-Tash on my 17th day.

Below are the coordinates of my camping spots and lodging:
1st night: 42.509680, 75.089165; https://maps.app.goo.gl/8WsKXJjmd4e2FfZE8
2nd night: 42.137674, 75.260584; https://maps.app.goo.gl/rn3oQ3txNfQqrgrJA
3rd night: 41.988224, 75.119153; https://maps.app.goo.gl/ApbL5xWXegQKP85d7
4th night: Guest House in Куйручук: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JjiAw2gwcfEKR8dcA
5th night: Sheperd’s yurt, 41.895511, 73.956896; https://maps.app.goo.gl/TG91MM55NCop8kC26
6th night: Jamanby Bel Pass: 41.907175, 73.457023; https://maps.app.goo.gl/1oWSozjjEjRN1U8Z6
7th: at the spring: 41.709109, 73.172498; https://maps.app.goo.gl/N5h7xGk1xoZUMGub9
8th: Sheperd’s yurt: 41.604502, 73.028984; https://maps.app.goo.gl/qjqvWXhgPHErvjwTA
9th: CBT Guest House in Кызыл Ункур (Kyzyl Unkur) tel.+996 778 938678: 41.376012, 73.070685; https://maps.app.goo.gl/k5RqhExgP6VF3khNA
10th: 40.982808, 73.184504; https://maps.app.goo.gl/2hYcsXG97phVynwbA
11-12th night: staying in house with relatives
13th night: invited to stay in house of local resident in Uch-Korgon
14th night: 39.786350, 72.151860; https://maps.app.goo.gl/aNuh76jGUsauAu116
15th: 39.552246, 72.278148; https://maps.app.goo.gl/gefS1mrZgs98XqgA9
16th: 39.679706, 72.906657; https://maps.app.goo.gl/K4TizHp4WKbZG4256
1st camp in Kegety Gorge - 42.509680, 75.089165; https://maps.app.goo.gl/8WsKXJjmd4e2FfZE8

Food/Water

On the Way to Kegeti Pass: The route to Kegeti Pass passes through several villages, offering convenient opportunities to resupply. Plan for an overnight camp before the pass, as the climb is demanding. Once over the top, you should reach the next village by early afternoon the following day.

Descending from Kegeti Pass: The descent brings you into the broad Kochkor Valley, where the route to Kyzart Pass follows a paved road through four villages. Each offers opportunities to resupply, with Kyzyl-Dobo and Mantysh standing out for their well-stocked shops and wide variety of food options.

From Kochkor Valley to Jumgal Valley via Lake Son-Kul: This remote section demands careful preparation, as there are no shops between Kyzyl-Döbö and Kuiruchuk Village. Be sure to stock up in Kyzyl-Döbö, which has a couple of reliable stores. The next opportunity to resupply comes only after descending from Chilbel Pass and leaving the Son-Kul region behind.

Chaek: This well-equipped village features numerous shops, as well as banks and ATMs, making it an ideal place to resupply. Be prepared for at least two nights of camping ahead, as the route crosses three mountain passes with limited access to stores in the smaller villages along the way.

Torkent to Üch-Terek: Don’t linger too long in Torkent—press on toward Üch-Terek, where you’ll find a good selection of shops and cafés. This is a key resupply point before tackling the Kargysh and Shyldyrak Passes. Afterward, you’ll descend toward the walnut forests near Kyzyl-Ürkur Village, which also offers a few small shops for basic provisions.

Jalal-Abad Foothills: Shops are limited in the foothill villages south of the mountain range, so plan ahead. Be sure to stock up thoroughly in Kyzyl-Ukur Village.
In Osh I would recommend two places for resupply:
Globus https://maps.app.goo.gl/Cce5hu5ZJkPDwCy59 
Osh Market (mini store) https://maps.app.goo.gl/C7nXCNShGnzXfkUR6

After Osh: The route from Mangyt to Sarykandy (about 25 km) runs through hilly, arid terrain resembling a desert. Be sure to stock up on water in Mangyt.

Resupply After Sarykandy: After Sarykandy, the route continues through several villages with small shops, offering steady resupply opportunities. Before tackling the final climb over Koi-Jolu Pass, make sure to stock up in Kyzyl-Kiya or Üch-Korgon—both towns have a wide range of stores and enough provisions to carry you through the next two days.

Isfairamsy River Gorge: The river itself was my primary source of drinking water—make sure to filter water from the river.

Kyzyl-Eshme: There are two shops with limited resupply options in Kyzyl-Eshme, so it may be worth continuing to Doroot-Korgon for better options. I had enough food to camp near Kuzul-Eshme on the main road and make a final push toward Lenin Peak Base Camp and Lake Tulpar.

Springs location along the route:
Kyzart Pass, 42.089440, 75.147204 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/R9szBsVPUUYV5eAh8

Travel Notes

This became my longest solo bike touring to date besides races I've done. I’m incredibly proud and satisfied, increasingly drawn into solitude and in search of quietness.

Read

Let me know if you’d like details on gear, planning, or specific sections of the route!

If you’re interested in joining a tour, planning a route, or learning about bikepacking adventures in Kyrgyzstan, I offer tour guiding services and personalized support.

Would you like assistance with planning a trip or more details about

bikepacking in Kyrgyzstan?

drop me a message

trough the from bellow

Contacts
+996 771 49 11 40 whatsapp/telegram
BIKEPACKING KYRGYZSTAN
Giraffe Coffee
Huge thanks to Giraffe Coffee for the tremendous support
bikepackingkyrgyzstan.cc
founder & editor
happy slow rider
Malik Alymkulov
https://www.instagram.com/the_last_nomad_republic/