General Info
Distance - 546 km
Duration - 7-10 days
Highest point - 3770 m, Kegeti pass
Lowest point - 860 m, the place of the route beginning.
Difficulty - (1-10) 7
Asphalt - 256 km
Gravel and dirt - 266 km
Trail (singltrack) - 3.70 km
The Bishkek Eastern Compass is a multi-day bikepacking journey with a start and finish in Bishkek. It covers some parts of the Chui, Issyk-Kul and Kochkor valleys. The entire route is laid out to the east of Bishkek. I have built this route in addition to the existing route on the west side of Bishkek through the Tuy-Ashuu Pass, learn more here.
In early July 2024, I rode the majority of the Bishkek Eastern Compass route (approximately 472 km, or 86% of the total distance) with Adam Macquarie. He has published a comprehensive report of this journey on our website, which you can read here.
The route is absolutely amazing! It mainly passes along the foothills and spurs of two giant mountain ranges, Kyrgyz Mountains and Terskey Mountains. The Kegeti Pass is the only pass on the route that exceeds 3,000 meters, and we will tackle it on our way back to Bishkek – it's going to be an amazing experience! This time, we get to climb from the southern slope! The last two kilometers are multiple trails on a steep slope that countless cattles have left behind. Those cattles are driven from the Chui valley to the valleys of the Karakol river gorge and back twice a year.
The route is made up of some of the best-known and most popular trails in the area, including the stunning crossing from Kara-Talaa to Kochkor through the Semiz-Bel tract, which is undoubtedly the most picturesque area you could possibly imagine. And let's not forget the incredible 20-kilometre ascent from Kochkor to the lake Köl-Ukök, which is an absolute must! I was thrilled to have the chance to explore these two locations for the first time. The Tuura-Suu valley and the Semiz Bel tract are absolutely stunning! In summer, shepherds come up to the summer pastures of Semiz Bel from the villages of south-western Issyk-Kul and the neighboring Tuura Suu Ayil (village), which is really exciting to see! The Semizbel pass, at an altitude of 2715 metres, is covered with lush meadows and pastures. It is a gentle climb, and the western side is the best route to take.
Just 20 kilometres south-east of Kochkor lies the incredible mountain lake Köl-Ukök. It's an amazing sight to behold! A tiny lake surrounded by a necklace of alpine meadows and a scattering of giant boulders. This lake is definitely one of those you've got to see to believe!
The route includes roads of all types, gravel and dirt, asphalt and a few places with a footpath. There are settlements along the way, of which Kochkor is a biggest and has been a local centre for mountain tourism for two decades.
We reached Kochkor on Day 6, after visiting Lake Ukök. Adam decided to stay here and complete his part of the Bishkek Eastern Compass. Next up was the Kegeti Pass and the foothills of the mountain range with access to Bishkek.
Map & GPX
Highlights
- A wonderful gravel road runs alongside the Big Chui Canal, and there's also a great provincial tarmac connecting the ayils (villages) of the southern part of the Chui Valley.
- The absolutely gorgeous Oktorkoi Valley! Experiencing the summer pastures and classic yurt life of cattle breeders, just behind the corner from the large agglomeration of towns in the Chui Valley.
- Now for the descent cruising along the asphalt road. Breathtaking downhill to the man-made Ortotokoi lake!
- And then Tuura-Suu Gorge from Issyk-Kul to the village of Tuura-Suu in southern Issyk-Kul province! The gravel road winds its way along the Tuura-Suu River, leading you to the charming village of the same name. The gorge is absolutely teeming with miniature valleys, each with its own lush green meadows and sparkling streams. The delightful Aiyl Tuura-Suu is nestled in a small valley bowl, surrounded by verdant pastures at the foot of the mountains. A hidden paradise in the Issyk-Kul region, just waiting to be discovered!
- The Semiz-Bel tract and pass are home to vast, rolling pasturelands, with Issyk-Kul and Kochkor households spreading out in the lowlands of the tract and around the pass.
- Lake Ukök is an absolute glacial treasure of the eastern spurs of Terskey Mountain ridge and a must-see piece of beauty of the whole Kochkor valley! I simply had to include this lake in the route, despite the fact that I have to make a deviation south-east from the route.
- Climb southern slopes of Kegeti Pass 3800m
- Traverse from Kegeti to Tuyuk. Some more climbing on a mountainous dirt road, some more mountain pastures as a bonus after a week of adventures and, finally, the exit to the asphalt of the rural motorway leading to the suburbs of Bishkek.
Gallery
Important information:
There are two paths from Kashka village to the Oktorkoi Valley; one leaves the village to the right and snakes up the hills to the quarry and on into the Oktorkoi valley; the second leaves the village to the left and follows a narrow gorge up a footpath, along a water pipe to an intermediate small pass. Adam and I took the serpentine path through the quarry.In September I took the opportunity to scout the second path into the valley. I successfully completed it without any problems or difficulties. It is shorter and quicker. There are a few climbs where you have to push your bike, but only for a short distance. The gorge is short and narrow; I had a hard time finding a place to spend the night, although it was possible to go back down. Higher up the gorge there is a small plateau where you can pitch your tent in privacy, from there it is not far to the Oktorkoi valley, about 400m up the slope. Below is a map of the route and a selection of photos.
Important information
The section of the route along the A365 motorway in the Boom Gorge and on to the Ortokoy Reservoir requires extreme caution and attention. In the Boom Gorge the motorway is very busy, especially in the summer. The length of the section is 46km.
Camping
You can find a suitable place to pitch your tent anywhere along the route. There was only one place where we had difficulty finding a place to camp - on the descent from Oktorkoi to the Boom Gorge.At the end that evening we put our tents next to kashar (farm) on a small green area with a spring.
Below are the coordinates of our camping overnights of this reconnaissance expedition.
1st night: 42.691874, 75.569490 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/TKrQL4mWt8CC3q358
2nd night: 42.629047, 75.782387 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/pxQGbPokzS5EPf1t8
3rd night: 42.317158, 76.397512 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/hiV9wCeRoSjTxYyW9 , privet backyard garden
4th night: 42.151358, 76.246927 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/Cwd1gXQhtL47tPxh6
5th night: 42.109241, 75.852084 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/54pMq5cBxtonRTcg9
6th night: 42.258579, 75.241125 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/hbsBdX2nvg8Mybrj8 , privet backyard garden
7th night: 42.612858, 75.078486 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/RV6jMSJFaiVXJzqb8
Food/Water
I would advise you to stock up on water before leaving Bishkek for the next shop in Ak-Sai village if you want to save time and not get off the trail to fill up your bottles. Further on to Bordu and Orlovka there will be no problems with water and snacks.My advice is to stock up for two nights at Onbir-Zhylga ayil or Orlovka before climbing to Kashka. There are no shops in Kashka, but there is a source of drinking water in the upper part of the village, near the tarmac road. It took us 1.5 days to get from Kashka to Boom Gorge with one overnight stay.
Next is a long trek through the Oktorkoy Mountains towards the Boom gorge. There are plenty of many roadside cafes and small shops along the road. The shops here are meager with a large number of snacks and sweets. After you turn towards the city of Naryn, there will be no places to eat or buy anything until the village of Kara-Talaa on the shore of Issyk-Kul. It dry up there, keep a sufficient supply of water. In the center of the village of Kara-Talaa there is a small but well-stocked grocery store, be sure to stock up your supplies here, you will not be able to do this further until Kochkor. At a good pace and favorable weather conditions, you can cover the distance between Kara-Taala (about 83 km) during daylight hours. Kochkor is full of shops and various cafes. Be sure to have enough for one camp at Ukok Lake. Before climbing to the Kegety Pass, you will have to pass 6 settlements in each of them you will be able to replenish your water supplies, you can find take canned fish, noodles and some snacks. Between the last village in the Kochkor Valley to the village of Toguz-Bulak in the foothills of Issyk-Ata area is about 100 km without the possibility for supplies.
The list includes water sources and shops.
- Super Market, Бишкек Globus https://maps.app.goo.gl/A2E5yfopPkvWaqGc6
- Grocery Store, Aliaskar Toktonaliev 42.750343, 75.010818 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/F3ifvJUvV87RMeDv8
- Grocery Store, Al-Sai 42.753077, 75.058157 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/vbpTEVviVD7ffogT8
- Water source, Kaiyrma 42.691980, 75.404527 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/SahCUAbKfprTVmsQ8
- Water source, Kashka 42.689569, 75.570127 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/UGx7GoQuMRhMBvjr9
- Water source, Bordunskii 42.656021, 75.601597 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/1brGARkhMgx2Wizc7
- Water source, 42.647851, 75.636956 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/JgACUSaj6o7zAr9i6
- Water source, 42.629047, 75.782387 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/pxQGbPokzS5EPf1t8
- Grocery Store “ Бектемир”, Kara-Talaa (Ton) 42.317229, 76.401396 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZE4fHebYfB8JRCsN
- Water source, Tuura-Suu Gorge, Kara-Talaa (Ton) 42.213849, 76.337102 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/6nSeAsMMJPfpNr6c6
- Grocery Store, Tuura-Suu 42.141799, 76.329584 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/WPrQkJenGgUTGCzX8
- Grocery Store, Kara-Kungoj (Kochkor) 42.203372, 75.921199 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/8WqLeBVXnAaTPba76
- Plenty of shops in Kochkor.
- Grocery Store, Djong-Alysh (Kochkor) 42.259855, 75.232866 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/M8bFXw9qxCuUbU5w9 This is the last shop before the ascent to the Kegety Pass, and further to the first settlements of Karagai-Bulak and Toguz-Bulak. The shop is poor, but you can stock up on bottled water, canned fish and snacks.
Travel notes
Adam and I started from Globus at the roundabout at the junction of Akhunbaev and Kurmanzhan D streets in Bishkek. We rode along the Southern Big Chuisky Canal to Aksay village, and there we turned onto the tarmac. We stopped for lunch in Rot-Front. After reaching the Kegety village we went straight on to Orlovka town. We set up camp on a meadow by a stream in the centre of the Kashka village. We travelled about 98.9 km.
There is a spring in the centre of Kashka village, so in the morning we filled up with water and headed for one of the two ascents to the Oktorkoy Valley. Neither Adam nor I had ever climbed the valley before, and we followed our pre-planned route using the navigator. But before we started the climb, we met a local resident who suggested we climb up along the double-track road leading up to the mine. We decided to change our route and take the serpentine road through the mine. The road turned out to be more difficult than we had expected. The climb was quite steep in some sections and the surface was fine gravel mixed with sand and large stones, making it impossible to roll. At the top, in front of the quarry, there is a small village for the workers with a barrier at the entrance. Then an easy drive past the quarry and a descent into the Oktorkoy valley. Here we stopped for tea in a yurt. There is a spring nearby.
We went down along the Taldybulak River toward gold mining factory and before reaching it we turned right where a small pass awaited us. The weather was cloudy and we were lucky avoiding the scorching sun that is usual in this area. Pastures stretched all around, and every now and then we came across lonely shepherds' yurts. So we got to our next serpentine. Here we were invited to the yurt again by an elderly shepherd who lives here during summer with his wife. We decided to have lunch with them, bought a couple of eggs for two to add calories to our noodle soup. Ahead of us was a short serpentine. Here there is a double-track road that was used for laying high-voltage grid, now it is obviously not used and is in decline, somewhere we walked, somewhere we rolled a little, talking and looking at the nearby valley. We walked down the descent, the road was heavily overgrown in that place with tall grass and bushes and in places covered with stones. Having reached the gravel road in the next gorge, we stopped, after a short search for a suitable place for the camp, on a small green island at a watering place near a spring not far from the kashar (farm). The slopes around are dry, and the surface is clayey-stony, it was difficult to find a more convenient place to set up tents.
We covered approximately 31 km.
We went down along the Taldybulak River toward gold mining factory and before reaching it we turned right where a small pass awaited us. The weather was cloudy and we were lucky avoiding the scorching sun that is usual in this area. Pastures stretched all around, and every now and then we came across lonely shepherds' yurts. So we got to our next serpentine. Here we were invited to the yurt again by an elderly shepherd who lives here during summer with his wife. We decided to have lunch with them, bought a couple of eggs for two to add calories to our noodle soup. Ahead of us was a short serpentine. Here there is a double-track road that was used for laying high-voltage grid, now it is obviously not used and is in decline, somewhere we walked, somewhere we rolled a little, talking and looking at the nearby valley. We walked down the descent, the road was heavily overgrown in that place with tall grass and bushes and in places covered with stones. Having reached the gravel road in the next gorge, we stopped, after a short search for a suitable place for the camp, on a small green island at a watering place near a spring not far from the kashar (farm). The slopes around are dry, and the surface is clayey-stony, it was difficult to find a more convenient place to set up tents.
We covered approximately 31 km.
In the morning we quickly went down to the A364 highway in the Boom Gorge. There are less cars here in the early hours and we hurried to get through this section to the bridge to Naryn before lunch. We stopped for our second breakfast at the exit from the gorge in a small eatery, ate some kattama, kaymak and tea and hurried on. Along the way we made several unsuccessful stops in roadside shops, but we didn’t find anything suitable, only sweets and snacks everywhere. We had lunch at a cafe near the bridge before the upcoming long stretch to Kubaky Pass 2160 m and the coast of Issyk-Kul Lake (73 km).
A storm caught up with us at the pass. We descended to the Ortotokoy Reservoir in heavy rain, accompanied by thunders and lightning.
Kara-Talaa greeted us with a rainbow at the background of stormy clouds moving to the east. In a small village grocery store with a wide range of products we got our supplies for dinner and the next couple of days. Adam was offered a pack of ready-to-eat canned beans, which turned out to be damn tasty in the evening for dinner.
We asked to pitch our tents in the garden of a local resident, who lived very modestly alone with his elderly father, with a rather neglected household. The hour was early and we had enough time to prepare dinner and the camp in general. During the night a thunderstorm with torrential rain began. The storm rumbled for quite a long time.
Distance for the day - 99.7 km
A storm caught up with us at the pass. We descended to the Ortotokoy Reservoir in heavy rain, accompanied by thunders and lightning.
Kara-Talaa greeted us with a rainbow at the background of stormy clouds moving to the east. In a small village grocery store with a wide range of products we got our supplies for dinner and the next couple of days. Adam was offered a pack of ready-to-eat canned beans, which turned out to be damn tasty in the evening for dinner.
We asked to pitch our tents in the garden of a local resident, who lived very modestly alone with his elderly father, with a rather neglected household. The hour was early and we had enough time to prepare dinner and the camp in general. During the night a thunderstorm with torrential rain began. The storm rumbled for quite a long time.
Distance for the day - 99.7 km
Adam felt unwell in the morning. We had a leisurely breakfast in the damp garden.
In the upper part of the village, a mudflow covered part of the road on the way out of the village. The Tuurasu River gorge is picturesque and not difficult to pedal. The arid slopes and the river bed with successive meadows create an incredible atmosphere. By lunchtime, we reached the village of Tuura-Suu. We rode around it on a large detour and settled down on the mountainside by the road for a field lunch and to dry out our gear. I was in these places for the first time.
The village of Tuura-Suu and its surroundings are beautiful, green pastures all around, open spaces in the confined space of a mountain valley, if you can describe it that way.
In front of us lay a gentle pass from the Tuura-Suu Valley to the neighboring Semiz-Bel Valley . We rode quick in the company of a passing horseman. Adam felt ill, an upset stomach that had started at night and had worsened by this time, and general fatigue. We needed shade to rest, the terrain was open and the day was hot. We stopped at a shepherd's hut. There was good shade under their wall. Adam wanted to lie down there. We were invited for tea. That day we decided to put up tents earlier than planned, to rest. It was about 16:00.
Distance for the day - 36 km
In the upper part of the village, a mudflow covered part of the road on the way out of the village. The Tuurasu River gorge is picturesque and not difficult to pedal. The arid slopes and the river bed with successive meadows create an incredible atmosphere. By lunchtime, we reached the village of Tuura-Suu. We rode around it on a large detour and settled down on the mountainside by the road for a field lunch and to dry out our gear. I was in these places for the first time.
The village of Tuura-Suu and its surroundings are beautiful, green pastures all around, open spaces in the confined space of a mountain valley, if you can describe it that way.
In front of us lay a gentle pass from the Tuura-Suu Valley to the neighboring Semiz-Bel Valley . We rode quick in the company of a passing horseman. Adam felt ill, an upset stomach that had started at night and had worsened by this time, and general fatigue. We needed shade to rest, the terrain was open and the day was hot. We stopped at a shepherd's hut. There was good shade under their wall. Adam wanted to lie down there. We were invited for tea. That day we decided to put up tents earlier than planned, to rest. It was about 16:00.
Distance for the day - 36 km
Adam felt fine this morning. We headed for the Semizbel Pass 2715m. The climb is easy and not difficult. By lunchtime we had already descended to Kochkor. After lunch we started the climb to Ukok Lake. At one point we crossed a river which had washed away the road. We set up camp in the Ukyok gorge on a wide alpine meadow below the lake.
Distance for the day - 65 km
Distance for the day - 65 km
In the morning we went up to the lake, had tea in a yurt and after lunch rode down to Kochkor. Adam decided to stay in Kochkor and finish his part of the trek. After saying goodbye, I had a lunch of pies in a chaikana in the bazar, stocked up on supplies for the next part of the route and headed for the western edge of the great Kochkor valley, where the road leads to the Kegety Pass. The local tarmac is pleasant for cycling, there are not many cars, several villages with shops along the way, and the opportunity to view the valley and foothills. In the evening I cycled up to the last village of Djon-Alysh before the gorge. At the confluence of two irrigation ditches, not far from the road, I spotted a place for a tent, but a swarm of mosquitoes flew at me immediately and forced me to leave. I found next spot in the yard of a household in Djon-Alysh. I simply asked the owners if they would mind if I pitched a tent in a green area of their large yard. There was a drinking water pump and a ditch nearby, which was handy for evening routine in my privet tent camp.
Distance per day - 76 km
Distance per day - 76 km
I set out early in the morning, aiming to cross the Kegeti Pass. Overall, it was a pleasant solo ride with no particular difficulties and problems. I rode without long stops and did not cook any hot meal. On the serpentine road I met a female cyclist from Germany who was going to Osh aiming to Pamir Highway. At the top of the serpentine I took pictures of a shepherd descending with a flock of sheep. Around 15:00, at the top of the pass, I met old friends of mine on quad motobikes. The weather was getting worse and a storm was coming. The descent was accompanied by heavy rain. I decided to return to Bishkek, having exhausted my time limits. As I approached the valley, the road was blocked by a huge mudslide. Cars on both sides of the road stopped for an indefinite period of time. To my surprise, the grader didn't keep all us waiting long and after a couple of hours I was back on the tarmac in the Chui Valley where a car was waiting for me to bring me home.
Distance for the day - 91.3 км
Distance for the day - 91.3 км
If I were to continue on the Bishkek Eastern Compass route, I would turn left immediately after leaving the Kegety Gorge and head west along the spurs towards the Bel-Saz campsite, where I would spend the night in a tent or guesthouse.
In the morning I would descend into the Tuyuk Gorge, the lower part of which is adjacent to the tarmac road to Issyk-Ata and then keep riding on the same through the foothill villages towards Bishkek. I have done this part of the route before, it is not difficult.
Distance - 68 km
Photogallery
In the morning I would descend into the Tuyuk Gorge, the lower part of which is adjacent to the tarmac road to Issyk-Ata and then keep riding on the same through the foothill villages towards Bishkek. I have done this part of the route before, it is not difficult.
Distance - 68 km
Photogallery
watch Malik's short film presenting
Bishkek Esatern Compass Route
Bishkek Esatern Compass Route
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founder & editor
happy slow rider
founder & editor
happy slow rider
Malik Alymkulov